Matching smell and taste with colour, texture and shape. A Chef’s ‘palette’ is an immersive sensory experience.
I love mackerel, the shine, the pattern and form. A sleek fish that can travel as much as 50 metres in 10 seconds and is abundant in Cornish waters. A delight to draw and paint. A sustainable fish and a healthy one to eat too.
I met with Chef Jude Kereama to find out what he loves about his favourite fish and one of his go-to snack dishes - Mackerel Tartare.
Jude recalls a fishing/cooking story. Casting a line off the harbour wall with his son Joe, a mackerel is caught. He prepares it sashimi style with lime and soy sauce. A quick catch, simply prepared. So fresh. It’s a favourite of his son’s. Jude remarks “Keep it simple”.
Today I see his ‘palette’. All the ingredients are laid out in a way which is not dissimilar to my approach when painting. Colours, flavours and textures are neatly presented in small porcelain bowls. There’s a certain alchemy to what is taking place before me.
Behind The Scenes With Chef Jude Kereama
Vegetables and herbs are carefully selected and prepared, delicately diced and sliced. Arranged according to colour. Already a beautiful picture.
Mackerel From Celtic Game and Fish St Ives
The scene is set ready for action. He takes one of his favourite knives, from British company TOG, the blade is hand crafted in Japan. He swiftly fillets the fish, remarking on how fresh it is with its shining eyes and red gills.
Precision Tools By TOG Knives
It’s so inspiring being behind the scenes where the real action of a restaurant takes place. I watch how the mackerel is skilfully diced, beautiful in colour. Light and translucent with soft pink hues.
Chef Jude Kereama
A Colour Wheel
Now to bring the palette together. The ingredients are placed around the diced mackerel:
Mackerel Tartare
Ingredients
Salt Baked Beetroot, Diced Pepper, A tartare mix (Capers, shallots, dill and parsley), Chives, Pickled cucumber, Fresh Granny Smith, Creme Fresh, Blobs of Granny Smith Puree, Rapeseed Oil, Nasturtium Oil, Ponzu sauce and Crispy Shallots.
“Everyone should eat mackerel” Jude comments. ”It’s sustainable, high in Omega 3 and super healthy. You can do so much with it: grilled, baked, fried, cured, smoked so many options, keep it simple”.
I observe a reverence for the ingredients and how each process is so considered. Each element placed with a delicate touch. The result is a tasty mini world.
A Chef’s Go-To Snack
If mackerel isn’t on the menu when you visit Kota Restaurant in Porthleven it will be adorning the walls. My large statement paintings of ‘Twin Mackerels’ welcomes you in, plus ‘Lone Mackerel’ who sits in a corner booth for you to get close up and personal with this beautiful fish.
How do you like your mackerel?
Image: Matt Keeble Photography
Purple and pink jewels topped with leafy crowns are a joy but what to do with them apart from salads and pickling? Firstly I draw them.